Jizan, Saudi Arabia: A Pictural Tour

Posted on February 9, 2010 by American Bedu

I had previously written about the history and background of Jizan.  I’ve not yet had the opportunity to personally see Jizan.  In learning this, one of my husband’s friends shared some photos of Jizan and particularly its unique souk.  The photos have certainly increased my own appetite and desire to see this unique place and I am confident that many readers will have the same view.  And since we know that a photo says a 1000 words, then this post must be worth no less than 10,000.

First, make sure to take the correct turn!

items to the souk arrive in all forms of transport.  These items are brought by “jahash” (small donkey).

It is similar to a “flea market” style

Cobras anyone?

if alive is not preferred, pickled is available.

now this is where I’d want to stop and investigate for a while and try to persuade my husband to bring home both a gazelle and a falcon.

more falcons on display

lovely handicrafts for the home and as gifts

more traditional clay water bottles and other local handmade items

there is nothing like an open air spice market!

gat – grown locally and similar to marijuana

after gat, I guess a stall with handmade knives and daggers is appropriate…

and cannot leave the souq without seeing the fabrics, clothing, accessories and more housewares.  All is negotiable too!

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How DO Saudis Celebrate a New Year?

Posted on February 8, 2010 by American Bedu

Saudi Arabia follows the Hijri (Islamic Year) whereas most other places in the world follow the Gregorian calendar year.  Since I have explained the distinction between Hijri and Gregorian calendars in an earlier post, rather than repeat the distinctions, I am going to expand more on the New Year itself.

Jill is a regular of American Bedu blog and she wanted to know just how do Saudis celebrate the New Year.  While Saudi Arabia follows the Hijri calendar, it also acknowledges the Gregorian calendar.  In fact at all the Saudi institutions where I have worked, all correspondence and documents will cite both the Hijri and Gregorian date.

However when it comes to the New Year itself, whether it is the Hijri or Gregorian year, both are just regular days in Saudi Arabia.  Unlike many other countries around the world with multiple holidays and special days, within Saudi Arabia the only times which are recognized with official time off are Saudi National Day (Independence Day); Eid al Fitr (Ramadan); and Eid al Adha (Hajj).

Jill wanted to know whether there were special foods, games or customs to celebrate the New Year.  While this does not happen for the New Year in Saudi Arabia, families certainly have special foods, games and customs for the respective Eids.

In closing this post I should mention that the Gregorian New Year is typically celebrated by expats and some Saudis will join in these celebrations.  However such functions are usually private invitation-only functions.  Anyone planning to celebrate the Gregorian New Year in Saudi and stay up beyond midnight needs to take into account that depending on when New Year’s Day falls, he or she will be expected to work in the morning, on time.

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Saudi Fun Quiz Jan 2010

Posted on February 7, 2010 by American Bedu

The January Saudi Fun Quiz is now available for your enjoyment!  However you may want to review January posts before trying your luck.

Have fun!

Filed under: Charity, Dress, Entertainment, Food, Freedoms, Just for fun, Saudi Arabia, Saudi Living, Saudi Quiz, Saudi blogs, Saudi culture, Saudi customs, Saudi education, culture, friendship, gender, hajj, islam, relationships, religion, shopping, travel | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment »

A Saudi Wife Speaks Out on 35 Years of Life in the Kingdom

Posted on February 7, 2010 by American Bedu

Susie has been married to her Saudi husband for 35 years and the majority of her life has been in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.  We will learn how she and her husband initially met (everyone loves a love story) and the changes she has seen and experienced from all of the years she has been in the Kingdom.

First of all, thank you very much for this opportunity to interview you and ask you a variety of questions.

Thank you so much for asking to interview me Carol.

Let’s start at the beginning, how did you and your husband initially meet?  What are some of the highlights of your courtship?  How soon after meeting did you marry?

I met my husband, Ziyad Ahmed Zaidan, in 1971 while he was a student of architecture at the University of Detroit and I was studying piano and interior design at Marygrove College in Detroit. After we had been dating for nearly three years Ziyad completed his Master’s degree and moved back to Jeddah to begin his architectural profession. A short while afterwards I travelled to Spain to meet my future mother and father-in-law and three of my husband’s eight siblings. We married about three and a half years after we met. We had a wedding at the house of an Imam in Dearborn, Michigan and later the same week we had a wedding in a Lutheran Church in Fenton, Michigan. After our honeymoon and return to Jeddah my mother-in-law had a party to introduce me to the female family members at Kilo 10. In 1974 this was a very trendy place!

What were the initial reactions of both families when you married?  Did you know his family at all prior to your marriage?

Both of our respective families were very pleased that we planned to marry. At the time when Ziyad was asking permission from my Father to marry me he also promised my Father that I could return to the States to visit whenever I liked. By the way, my husband has upheld this promise. My Saudi in-laws were nothing but accepting of me and kind. They insisted that I call them Oomie & Abouya as they told me they were now also my parents.

You were married in 1974.  Were any approvals and permissions required such as they are now in order to be in the Kingdom together as husband and wife?

Approvals of Saudis to non Saudis only became necessary after 1972. From what I remember pre 1972 many Egyptian women went to King Faisal complaining that they married Saudis and then after arrival in the country found that they were 2nd,3rd or even 4th wives. King Faisal then issued the requirement for permission and this included investigating the Saudi man to ascertain if he had current wives. Permission was not granted if this was the case. Today I cannot verify if this investigation still takes place.

How soon after your marriage did you arrive in Saudi Arabia as a bride?  What kind of reception did you receive from your husband’s family?

After a two-month honeymoon which included a voyage on the SS France, travels through Europe and a spectacular wedding of a sister-in-law in Cairo, we returned to Jeddah. Upon arrival to Jeddah the brothers of my husband who were not on their summer holidays met us at Jeddah airport. Everyone was very welcoming and hospitable and I was given many gifts of jewelry and home furnishings. We were constantly invited to lunch and dinner during these early months of our marriage. My mother-in-law told me not to wear an abaya nor cover my hair because I am American. She felt it was not necessary.

Over the years now of living in the Kingdom, what have been the greatest changes (for better or worse) have you seen take place?

First of all women did not need permission to travel until the incident of “Death of a Princess”.

I worked as an interior designer in my husband’s company IDEA Network for many years. There were women of various nationalities and professions working together with men during the 70’s. There was no segregation but there was respect for one another.  Today, sadly enough this has changed. Segregation is made into an issue and generally speaking, men and women do not know how to interact professionally. I see this as a change for the worse.

I am trying to point out what I consider progressive changes in the society and Saudi Arabia. The advancement of women in various professions is very small considering how long I have been in Jeddah. The placement of women in high positions in most cases is tokenism. If I look at the attitudes on women working in the 70’s and compare it to today I see a backward movement in opinions and freedom. This is not to say that many Saudi women have not strived hard and succeeded in building a professional life but rather more should have by 2010. Women’s education has been a positive achievement. Limiting what fields women are allowed to work in is not.

The freedom in the press is an improvement however, that is quite recent.

The formation and organization of Jeddawi volunteers during the recent floods was very positive and heartening.

The abundance of shopping malls and consumer goods is also a wonderful development when years ago Leb Joe’s grocery freshened tins of food by painting them!

How has living in Saudi Arabia changed you as an individual?  Where has it strengthened you and where has it weakened you?  And how come?

Living in Saudi Arabia has given me the opportunity to get to know and understand many different nationalities and cultures which is not something easily done in the States. It has strengthened me by letting me interact with a country that is so different than my own without changing who I am. Foreign wives do need to compromise, but there is a line that if crossed, begins to whittle away who you are.

How has the quality of your life both improved and declined?

The quality of my life has only improved over these 35 years. The opportunity to travel and work on various projects has been a wonderful source of inspiration for personal development.

What has been your best experience in the years you have lived in Saudi?

My best experience has probably been to get to know and love my extended Saudi family. They have always been supportive and accepting of me. I have to say they are an exceptional family and I am very fortunate to be part of them.

Another good experience had been serving on the board for 10 years and as president of the American Ladies of Jeddah. Our aim was to introduce and help American women learn about Saudi Arabia. Unfortunately due to many circumstances this club does not exist today but during its prime we had over 400 members.

Did you ever experience severe culture shock or a feeling on whether you’d really fit in?

During my early married years there were a few instances of culture shock. We were invited to a VIP lunch at the house of a prominent Jeddah family and upon arrival everyone was segregated. To my dismay the women guests were invited to eat the leftovers of the men’s lunch from the same dining table! I skipped that!

How easy (or not) has it been to adapt to lifestyle and activities of an extended Saudi family?

For me it has been relatively easy to adapt to my extended family. Since I am a designer I have designed and executed nearly all of the “kooshas” for family weddings. This allowed me to start my own business,”Wedding Design”, which I did for many years. A large extended family always has plenty of occasions of births, weddings and parties. We all gather every Thursday for lunch at my father-in-law’s house and it is a good chance to catch up with everyone.

Have you been exposed to any women living in polygamy?  And if so, did they seem truly happy?

I have been exposed to women living in polygamy however this is a relatively new and unfortunately popular phenomenon occurring in marriages amongst foreign women & Saudi men. I personally do not know of any polygamous marriages that are happy. I do not feel there is any reason for polygamy today. It is an expression of a selfish man playing what I call “cultural cards”. The polygamous marriages that I know are full of pain and the children suffer as well.

Now shifting subjects, I understand you have been involved in a project called Rabat Rehab for the past ten years.  Can you describe what this project is exactly?

This project began with the idea that needy women could produce handcrafted work that could be sold; allowing them to earn an income and at the same time feel they accomplished something by learning a new skill. The women of Rabat Rehab have become very adept at hand beading and they produce work on shawls, scarves and tarhas. We also produce traditional work such as saba ibhr, sirwal with oiya & kuffiahs. We sell at bazaars, private sales and in shops. The Rabat Rehab project fortunately receives donations in the year. Some of the donations are used to purchase materials this allows each woman in the program to receive 100% profit on each piece sold.

How did you become involved in Rabat Rehab and how can other women become involved?

I became involved in starting this program 10 years ago as I have always done some type of charity work. This project has become very meaningful as it involves not only needy Saudi women but other nationalities as well. I welcome any woman who would like to volunteer in Rabat Rehab. I am currently reorganizing the project so there is a place for whatever amount of time a woman is able to donate.

Can you share some information about the women who live in the Rabat?  Where they are from and what circumstances brought them there?

The women who live in the Rabat Rehab today are mostly Saudi and Yemeni. Some of the women have children. The women are either divorced, widowed or married but abandoned.

What is the Living with Dignity Program and how does it relate to Rabat Rehab?

Living with Dignity was developed after understanding the circumstances of the needy woman in Rabat Rehab. In most cases the woman is young as opposed to the older widow who traditionally lives in a Rabat. She would like to improve her education and training so she can work. We are developing opportunities to help her with this and then assisting her to find employment. Many of the women have legal issues such as being married but abandoned and also in the case with children, child support that has never been paid. We help them resolve these issues with lawyers willing to work pro bono. We also welcome women into this program who do not live in the Rabat just as we also have other needy women handcrafting work that we sell for them.

Can both Saudi women and expat women volunteer for Rabat Rehab and Living with Dignity?

All women who are interested are more than welcome to volunteer.

If so, who can they contact?

Please contact me, Susie Zaidan at: arabianaccents@yahoo.com

In closing, it is evident you have created a full life for yourself in Saudi.  As you know, there are many young expat women who wish to marry a Saudi and some are aware of the extensive approval process and regulations and many of them are not.  Most of these young women know their Saudi outside of the Kingdom only.  What advice would you give to them on having a successful and happy relationship with their Saudi?  What do they need to know?  What should they expect?

Yes, I have created a full life for myself in Saudi Arabia and being in Saudi Arabia has also contributed to letting me be able to accomplish many goals and ideas that I may not have been able to do elsewhere. Years ago many foreign women married Saudis. Today I do not see this happening very often. I would advise any woman planning to marry a Saudi to make the effort to understand the country she may one day live in. Back in 1974 there was very little information, except at the library, on Saudi Arabia. Today there is too much conflicting information on the internet, which can be confusing. I would caution the young woman reading online that some information is not necessarily true. However, I would recommend American Bedu as it is an excellent resource. It is very important to meet your in-laws before you marry. Unfortunately some mothers-in-law can make the newlywed bride’s life very difficult if she doesn’t like you, as is the case in most marriages. It is especially pertinent in the Middle East where the closeness of family is very important and you do not want this strain between you & your husband’s mother. I think the most important element for any woman marrying a Saudi is to remain true to yourself. Do not be compromising to the extent of losing the woman your husband fell in love with. Do not change to the point that you no longer belong anywhere.

Above all keep an open mind and a sense of humor. Try to live a full and meaningful life. It can be a wonderful experience to live in Saudi Arabia.

Thanks again Susie for your time and agreeing to this interview.  Are there any other comments you would like to add?

You are very welcome Carol. Thank you for letting me wander down memory lane and to share some of my life with you.

Filed under: America, Charity, Dress, Economy, Freedoms, Interview, Saudi Arabia, Saudi Living, Saudi blogs, Saudi culture, Saudi customs, Saudi education, Women Issues, abbya, culture, friendship, gender, relationships, travel | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 13 Comments »

Saudi Arabia: Impact of Veiling and Living a Nocturnal Society on Women and Health

Posted on February 6, 2010 by American Bedu

A recent American Bedu post on veiling generated a lot of controversy and excellent discussion of differing views and perspectives.  As a result, I have chosen to also broach the topic on some ways veiling and living primarily in a nocturnal society impact on women and their health.

It is a fact that for all individuals, their bodies require and need Vitamin D.  The most natural source of Vitamin D3 is sunshine, something one can obtain freely and naturally with simple exposure to sunlight.  Lack of a sufficient exposure to sunlight is proven to lead to a series of health related issues such as headaches, irritability, fatigue, greater susceptibility to other illnesses such as flu.  Quoting from an informative article on the impact of a Vitamin D3 deficiency, “Studies have shown [that] deficiency in vitamin D is associated with osteoporosis, heart disease, autoimmune diseases, malignancies, and hypertension.”

Therefore it is not surprising to learn that Muslim women in the Middle East who conservatively cover with either the niqab and/or veil completely are more susceptible and likely have a Vitamin D3 deficiency that ultimately can lead to the other serious health problems associated with a lack of exposure to sunlight.

I know many Saudi women to whom I am either related by marriage or friends who are anemic and routinely require multiple blood transfusions each year.  All of these women also choose to remain completely covered when they are outside the home and many times will keep their heads and complete body covered when inside the home too.

Now the young generation of Saudi women ranging in age from as early as 13 to 35 have chosen a different lifestyle which also results in a Vitamin D3 deficiency.  These are the women who I call the “Nocturnal Society.”  The Nocturnal Society Syndrome is born from a culture which caters to little activity during the day and then flourishes building to a crescendo of activity as the night wears on.  I observed this syndrome from Saudi females in my extended family and the nocturnal society syndrome is at its height when school has been let and during Ramadan but does tend to exist throughout the year.  The women will remain inside of their homes during the day.  Many of the younger generation like to sleep until four pm if they are allowed.  However even when they are awake and inside their homes, the home is typically lit by artificial fluorescent lighting.  Windows typically remain covered with curtains for privacy rather than allow in natural sunlight.  By the time the women will make their way outside of the house the sun has already gone down and darkness prevails.  The women will then continue to enjoy themselves in the wee hours of the next morning with visiting various shopping malls, eating out and visiting with friends who are also usually extended family.  Their day will come to a close prior to sunrise when they enjoy a large breakfast before going to bed to sleep through another sun-filled day.

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Ful and Arabic Panini with Cheddar Cheese and Jam

Posted on February 5, 2010 by American Bedu

Breakfast and dinner in Saudi Arabia can involve some kind of bread or sandwich. Most families have their main meal of the day at lunch with rice usually as the featured staple.

Ful (aslo written foul) is mostly known in Egypt although it is probably eaten throughout East Africa, the Arabian Peninsula and the Levant. The best type is made from the fava bean and when is made from dried beans which have been stewed slowly over a low fire in a special pot called a Fawala.

Most cooks have their secret ingredients to add to the basic dish but most will admit to adding a little bit of onion and tomato and possibly some red lentils to the pot while it is stewing to keep the color light. It takes hours to make ful and most busy cooks don’t have the time or patience to try it themselves. For the rest of us we can find canned ful in the supermarkets and specialty stores dealing in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern foodstuffs. The better quality bean is light-colored, small to medium size and the darker, larger beans are not as good eating. Some of the Italian brands feature the larger beans probably for a different use than as a warm salad.

There are many different ways to flavor ful as there are chefs and the toppings include:
diced tomatos, parsley, white or red onions, green onions, mint, hot peppers, garbanzo beans, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and cumin. No one puts all of them on the ful but usually some combination of these to enhance the flavor of the mostly bland beans.

The first version of ful is made by opening the can and pouring it into a medium skillet on medium heat. It’s better to prepare your toppings ahead of time because it takes more time to wash and chop them than it does to warm up the ful.

Once the toppings of choice are ready the ful is warmed up on the stove and depending on your preference you mash the beans with a fork. Roughly pureed ful is then called ful mudammas. Some cooks prefer to leave the mixture half and half with some beans left whole for toothiness.

You have to watch the beans to make sure they don’t dry out. They usually warm up within 2 to  3 minutes.The beans are turned into a shallow dish and staple toppings are olive oil, lemon juice and cumin, then any assortment of the herbs or tomatos. Here are some favorite combinations:

tomato, parsley, white onion (oil, lemon juice, cumin)
mint and a few whole garbanzo beans (oil, lemon juice and cumin)
parsley only with (oil, lemon juice and cumin)

I am not a big fan of using garlic but it’s not unheard of and probably goes very nicely with tomato, parsley (oil, lemon juice, and cumin).

Ful tastes very good with pita bread especially whole wheat pita bread but it also goes very well with crusty french bread or a sour dough. If using sour dough, cut back on the lemon juice. Ful can also be served with lime juice instead of lemon. It rarely needs extra salting as you are cooking it in the can liquid and not draining it.

A second version of ful is called Ful Makawy (Makkah-style Ful). I love this dish but it is the dividing line between how my husband enjoys his ful and how I do. Since a can is fairly generous for two people I make half for me my style and half for him, his style.

Ful Makawy

half a small onion
one small clove garlic
butter
half a tomato
scant tablespoon tahina

The finely diced onion is cooked in a tablespoon of butter until translucent, then the garlic is added and the tomato and cooked just until softened. Some people like to add a little finely-chopped chili pepper too and just the faintest dash of cumin. Then the beans are poured in and warmed through and all the ingredients are crushed together. A tablespoon of tahina is added to the mixture making it a little bit creamier and a little bit extra water can be added.

The mixture is served in a shallow, rimmed dish and topped with melted butter. It’s heavenly and I can’t figure out why hubby isn’t as in love with it as I am. For a busy chef (and some might scream at this) the left over Ful Makkawy can be doctored with a bit of chili powder and rolled up later in a flour tortilla with cheese, seasoned ground beef or fajita steak or chicken and either eaten as a burrito or grilled as a chimichanga. In Saudi when you can’t always get pinto beans, foul made this way is a reasonable fudge. I might add a touch of oregano as well to the bean mixture when it is posing as frijoles refritos, not because it tastes more authentic but because I like it.

Since sour dough is nearly impossible to get in Saudi I also recommend trying ful with tameez the Afghani flat bread that is made in brick ovens. Tameez comes in two basic styles, Abu Samin (the father of fat) which is softer and chewier and Abu Biskoot which is flatter, drier and crispier. Recently some versions have been stuffed with a type of cheddar cheese and baked. It’s probably Kraft cheddar which comes in a blue can and has a huge shelf life. The first time I tried it I truly wondered how anyone could call it anything but yellow wax “cheese” but it does grow on one over time, especially when made as panini with samouli bread (looks like a hot dog bun) and apricot or strawberry jam. Cheese and jam melded together in a crispy sandwich is a breakfast must try.

Saha wal Afia

Jasmin Keaton for Carol

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Saudi Arabia: A Tribute to My Love

Posted on February 4, 2010 by American Bedu

February is known through most of the world as the month of hearts and love and romance due to Valentine’s Day.  However Valentine’s Day is not openly celebrated in Saudi Arabia.  At this time, less stores will offer red items which have hearts or teddy bears or even red flowers.  And as usual, there will be several raids on facilities and businesses that at other times of the year are allowed to offer joyful and loving gift items which bring a smile to ones face.  Sadly the owners of these businesses know that the raids happen each year (of course by the Muttawa) and they prepare for it.  Rarely are any of these business found not in compliance but it is part of the “annual game” that takes place near Valentine’s Day.

This year I am breaking tradition and speaking out very candidly and openly in advance of Valentines Day.  I am writing a tribute from the heart to the Love of my Life, Abdullah Al-Ajroush.  I’ll never feel that we have had enough time together and in spite of some difficult times, there were the most wonderful of times which I would never change.

He may never see this or read this but they are words I need to say.  In fact, it is almost as if the keyboard has a mind of its own and is using my fingers as its messenger.

It took me a while to love you as you know.  Although I immediately liked you and was mesmerized by you.  You were different from any man I had ever known and not solely because of your Saudi citizenship.  From the beginning you were both charming and polite, respectful and outgoing.  You did not hesitate to open up your mind and your heart even when you knew I was shy, scared, afraid and fighting the thought of having anything more than a respectful and cherished friendship.

You told me within days of meeting you that I would be the wife of your life.  You called me “My Love” for so many years I stopped responding the few times you actually called me by my given name.  Even my family started referring to me as your American Bedu.

Through our friendship and courtship you always did thoughtful gestures.  And once you decided to take a proprietal interest in me, you made sure no other single male would come near me!  During our respective diplomatic careers you took such pride in being the one to escort me to diplomatic functions.  And of course, I always felt like a treasured piece of porcelain when I was accompanied by you.

You taught me how to reveal myself to you and not be afraid or shy to share whatever was on our minds.  Contradictory to our respective cultures and traditions, we learned how to laugh and cry together.  It was okay for you to be the weak one at times and for me to be the strong one.  And I always cherish the hundreds if not thousands of times that you would insist I do the driving since you’d refer to our future marriage and once in Saudi I would not be able to drive as freely.

As early as two months after our meeting each other you started telling me about your large and extended family.  With your vivid descriptions I already knew in which ways you resembled Mama Moudy and which was you took after your Dad.  I loved hearing about all your siblings and the adventures you had.  Your recollections further endeared you to my heart and my life.

And of course you also won my family’s heart before they ever met you.  When you first asked me if you could not only have my Dad and my Mom’s number and could you speak with them, I didn’t give it a second thought.  I was happy to provide you with that information.  When I learned that the purpose of your call was to introduce yourself to them, assure them of your serious intent and also give them the chance to ask any questions of you, you won their hearts.

Anyone who has been touched by you knows of your sincerity, your loyalty and your dedication to those whom you love.  They also know how giving you are and you do not want anyone or anything to suffer.  You, my Love, are such an honorable man.

I remember the night I learned my mother had passed away.  I was in India, right after 9/11 and you were still in Pakistan.  Not only did you speak with me for three full hours straight on the phone but you set up a relay of just about everyone from the Saudi Embassy in Islamabad to take calls calling me so I was never left without a warm and caring voice.

We decided to marry.  Your official proposal was so magical taking place at Jumeirah Beach, Dubai.  That was the same time you also informed me your next diplomatic posting was going to be Washington, DC.  We spent so much of that time in Dubai making plans for the future.

I also have so many memories of your different visits to see me in India.  And we can never forget the time the flights were closed and I actually drove to the Waga Border myself to pick you up!  The expression on the Pakistani and Indian Security guards was priceless.  It was as if they looked at each other to say “Did that Arab in the  Saudi diplomatic car really come across the border and get in to a car driven by an American diplomat?”  And I made sure we saw as much of India as we could during your visit.  In addition to the primary sites of Delhi, we had so many photos taken in Agra at the Taj Mahal.  Once in Rajastan, I took you to Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur.  Everywhere we went you made new friends with your natural way.

All my friends in India loved you too.  The common question I would be asked was “When is Abdullah coming next?”

And to think I taught you not only how to play golf but you grew to love the game as much as I do.  I was so proud when you decided you wanted your very own clubs.  When I learned you were also going on your own to the driving range to practice, I knew you were hooked.  You’ve always been a natural athlete no matter what sport you undertake.

We did so many sports together too.  We went hiking, horseback riding, played tennis, played golf, went bowling, played badmitton, played croquette, enjoyed throwing a Frisbee or football and I taught you how to play cribbage while you taught me how to play Balut.

Our discussions were never ending.  We never lacked of topics to discuss.  Of course foreign affairs and current events were our favorites.  Fortunately we shared the quest and knowledge of great books and could discuss and recommend authors for hours.

I appreciated all of our special memories in the various kitchens we have had.  You always took pleasure in joining me in the kitchen and to my delight, many times you would offer to cook.  (Are you sure you’re a Saudi, love?)  We could spend an entire evening in the kitchen sharing and bonding even more.

One of the most special ways you showed your love for me was shortly after your arrival in Washington.  I was still in India and making my preparations to join you.  I chose to send my cats ahead of my arrival.  There you were in a small condo at the time and without hesitation accepted my four cats into your home.  You gave them food, shelter and most importantly, love.  You learned not only how to take care of them but you gave them the very best of care.  Again, you demonstrated to me how very unique and precious you are.

We have always had magical moments wherever we’ve been.  I took such pride in introducing you to as much of America as I could and in turn, you showed me the hidden treasures of Saudi Arabia.  You made me love the country of the shifting sands and hidden treasures.  You made me appreciate and want to be a desert beduion.  I loved being with you in the desert at any time and each time we were in the desert together it seemed our souls would further mesh and bond.

As a couple we learned how to mesh our cultures and customs well.  I know that we are going to be apart Valentines Day 2010 but if we were together I know I’d be holding your hand tightly and continuing to share more of the special memories you have given me and how strong my love is for you, My Dearest Love.

Always,

Your American Bedu

Filed under: America, Books, Charity, Freedoms, Saudi Arabia, Saudi Living, Saudi blogs, Saudi culture, Saudi customs, Saudi education, Women Issues, culture, friendship, gender, horses, pets, politics, relationships, travel, women driving | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 40 Comments »

Visiting an American Legend in Saudi Arabia

Posted on February 3, 2010 by American Bedu

There are times when you can feel you are too tired to open just one more email but sometimes it’s really worthwhile.

I saw the notice in my Inbox, something about Barakat Trust having a book signing event, Wednesday, January 27th. That was the day I had already a very full schedule including holding my own book club meeting at 6:30 PM. It’s about as easy to gather a bunch of women who have jobs or take care of children at the end of a long week as it is to corral cats with one hand and a jump rope. I still felt I had to see what the signing was all about so I clicked open the email with a small sigh. I just couldn’t afford to risk missing an opportunity for my club members. I was so glad I did.

The Barakat Trust was founded in 1988 to support students and scholars with an interest in preserving Islamic cultural heritage.  One of those activities has been the reprint of Marianne Alireza’s “At the Drop of a Veil” and she was the featured author for the night of the book signing.

The book was not published or financed by Barakat Foundation but the book signing was an event to launch the “Friends of Barakat Trust.”

Marianne Alireza was one of the very first Americans to come to Jeddah in the early 1940s. Her book has been for many of the expatriate women who married Saudis and came to live here, the very first introduction to how it feels like to make such a huge departure from all that we are used to in our lives. ”At the Drop of a Veil” is a profoundly human, loving and honest account of Marianne’s experiences in Saudi Arabia and was very influential in my own decision to come to live in Jeddah in the mid-1980s.

The event was hosted at her house and open to families. I carpooled with a girlfriend who is too timid to go to these events on her own. I thought I had memorized the map of the villa because everything was based on a landmark on Tahliya Street. As we drove up the street east towards Madinah Road I noticed that the familiar landmark has become a thing of history. I blame myself for not going shopping at all while I live here, I would have noticed that if I took to my housewife role a little more heartily. After trying some seat of the pants reckoning I had to admit that we were running out of time before our book club meeting and I’d have to call for instructions.

Once we arrived at the villa we were treated graciously. Marianne was wearing a beautiful blue, gold and red caftan, her hair in her pixie style clipped to the side. She was sitting at a table near the entrance of the house with a stack of books to sign in front of her. People were printing the names they wanted inscribed on slips of post-its and she gamely signed book after book.

I just took in the view not really sure what to tell her when it was my turn. How could I tell Marianne that all those years ago I found her book in my college library and was transported back to Jeddah with all its romance and mystery. She was having many of the same difficulties I was trying to blend in with a culture and different language that was a far cry from what we were used to. I recalled her stories about missing her husband when he was called off to events for men only. I would think of my own upcoming separation from my husband once he finished his studies and would return to Saudi. Her gulf might have been in the same town, but mine would be thousands of miles. In some ways I thought I might never actually live in Jeddah but that thought all changed more than twenty years ago and I’ve been here since.

I watched her sweet smile as she heard the little anecdotes the different people where telling her as she signed the books. I had seen her years ago at an American Ladies of Jeddah meeting when the membership was mostly made up of American women married to Americans. Marianne was one of us, one of the women who was in a mixed marriage. She had come to share her experiences and her memories from her time in Saudi and was at that point living between Southern California and the Kingdom. She brought a smile to my eyes when she mentioned that her extended family always looked forward to her end of the year turkey dinner. I thought myself what a challenge it was nearly 20 years ago to find cranberries and celery, never mind cornbread stuffing. I could also appreciate the star power of being able to produce a turky dinner with all the frills as my in-laws also had come to enjoy those dinners.

Here I was standing in her villa eighteen years later. There were her friends and family sitting on the living room couches, a small seating area had been set up with a film on the Barakat foundation and some of their projects and recipients and in the dining room a sumptuous array of finger foods both sweet and savory. Waiters came about with a rainbow assortment of juices and water and half the fun was seeing all my friends who had also come for the evening Jeddah can be small and cozy and nothing quite makes it feel that way like bumping into familiar faces at these events.

I should pause a bit to fawn on the beautiful trays of appetizers including mini bastilla! One of my favorite Moroccan dishes, I had never seen it miniaturized in this way before. It was the traditional chicken filling wrapped in a tender triangular shaped pie crust and sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon. There were tiny fresh lumpia, little triangular sambusak, tiny kibbeh, rolled tuna sandwiches, cheese filled goodies, succulent olives, tabouleh and sweets too numerous to sample. Little ginger snaps, traditional baklava, fruit en brochette, just an unexpected and very welcome gesture of hospitality from the organizers.

By time I had gone back for a few more books, her family had arranged for her to have a small break. She had been signing books non-stop for over an hour. Despite her years she still has that spark to her and that loveable “can do” spirit. One of her granddaughters confessed to me that they had to insist she take a break. She is not one to admit being tired or unwilling to come forward. I felt myself have a small blush of shame at grumbling about being tired after work.

After only the briefest of breaks she walked back to the signing table, a small smile on her face. I was once again in front of her to have just a few more books signed for gifts. As in the past at that ALJ meeting long ago I had mentioned that her book, “At the Drop of a Veil” was the first I had read on Saudi Arabia. What I didn’t tell her was that it was also the best.

I will always treasure that evening and wish I could have expressed to her friends and family how kind they were to open their home and treat us all like family. God bless you Marianne, you have touched more lives than you will ever know.

For more information on the Barakat Trust, please visit their website at www.barakat.org.

And many thanks to my dear friend “Y” in Jeddah for sharing this memorable evening with American Bedu!

Filed under: America, Books, Charity, Freedoms, Saudi Arabia, Saudi Living, Saudi blogs, Saudi culture, Saudi customs, Saudi education, Women Issues, culture, friendship, gender, relationships, travel | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments »

Saudi Arabia: Old Riyadh

Posted on February 2, 2010 by American Bedu

When I think of Old Riyadh, I initially think of a painting I saw in the house of a Saudi while she was living in Washington, DC.  This Saudi woman is a dear friend of mine and obtained her Masters in Art while she was in the Washington area.  We bonded there and became very close.  And then we became even closer as our bond continued when both of us settled in Riyadh.  However back to the painting which caught my eye.  As an art student, she worked with many mediums and this painting happened to be one she painted in oils.  It is a picture of the very traditional Saudi woman back in the days when the women did not wear the abaya when they were outside of the house.  Instead she would wear a simple printed and colorful ladies thobe which was modest and demure.  She would wear a scarf on her head but not quite the same stretched tight look as of the hijjab today.  The painting stood out because the woman was climbing up stairs which instead of leading up to the house beside the stairs seemed instead to either lead to nowhere or perhaps lead to the sky.  What one could see of the woman’s obscured face was a serene expression.

Therefore when I see photos from today of Old Riyadh, they take me back to the time of reminiscing of the photo on my friends wall in her home in Washington and in addition to seeing the magnifying resonance of the past, I see how the past also has remained in the presence too with the vibrant hues of the photos and how the buildings with their stairwells leading up remain unchanged.

Filed under: Freedoms, Hobbies, Saudi Arabia, Saudi Living, Saudi blogs, Saudi culture, Saudi customs, Saudi education, Women Issues, culture, friendship, gender, religion, safety, travel, weather | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 7 Comments »

Saudi Arabia and its Caviar Industry

Posted on February 1, 2010 by American Bedu

I enjoy investigating and researching the various industries in Saudi Arabia.  Last month in January postings it was a pleasure to write about Saudi Arabia’s growing prawn industry which in turn led me to queries on whether Saudi Arabia had its own caviar industry.  Normally when thinking about caviar the first country which comes to my mind is Iran.  However, Saudi Arabia did not disappoint me.  Saudi Arabia has its own Caviar Court, based out of Damman.

Caviar is referred to by its connoisseurs’ as black gold and can be presented in the most appealing and appetizing of displays.  For those not aware, genuine caviar is made out of the fish, sturgeon roe.  Sturgeon evolved from the ancient chondrostean fish about 200 million years ago when dinosaurs roamed the surface of the earth.  Therefore it is not surprising to learn that the evolution and production of caviar has a rich history behind its creation.

Initially individuals depended on nature as the only source of caviar.  However as Caviar Court advises on their web site, they have become one of the pioneers to now provide the finest of caviar through innovations of modern technology.  According to Caviar Court, “The water in the systems undergoes serial stages of treatment that include mechanical filtration, violet infra rays, biological reaction filtration, aeration and disinfection. This approach guarantees complete isolation from harmful environmental factors such as pollution and infection. Al Faris Caviar Aquaculture boasts a “state of the art” caviar and fish processing plant.”

In addition to its finest caviar, Caviar Court also offers among its products sturgeon fillet, hot smoked sturgeon, cold smoked sturgeon, fish sausages and hotdogs.

Never underestimate Saudi Arabia and its growth industries.  As I have learned, there are many endeavors and opportunities to acquire the finest of “Made in Saudi” products.

Filed under: Economy, Food, Health, Saudi Arabia, Saudi Living, Saudi blogs, Saudi culture, Saudi customs, Saudi education, Technology, culture, travel | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments »

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